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\Here at the shop I always have things to do, but I always help customers out and when he bought the 1976 CB750F here I could see it needed just a little tlc, many people think they will just need a charged battery and some new fuel and away they go? In some cases you do get lucky but this old girl does need a little bit more work before I can get her to run again.
This will be a nice machine as super low miles but as she has sat for a long while, the Carbs really do need some work, so first off they are removed and will get stripped, cleaned, vapor honed, polished and put all back together, after that they will be jetted and synchronized so they run great once more. Not a cheap job but if customer looks after and rides regularly, no reason why these wont last another 40 years.
Intakes were solid as a proverbial rock, I do not want to refit the carbs and find out these have hair line cracks allowing air to leak into the manifolds, so I shall remove these and fit new ones that are nice and pliable and of course I sell on my website.
At least now I have a fighting chance at fitting the carburetors without having to push harder than a steam train to get the things to slide into the manifolds’ etc. Also a good tip on yours is, just add a little axle grease to the inside of the intakes to make the carbs easier to Plop, back into the rubber, makes a world of difference.
Still quite a bit to do as the front brake was binding so hard when we unloaded it from the trailer, this is always due to the steel piston inside the front caliper, as over the years when they sit in all weather and temperatures, the body of the caliper is alloy and the piston steel, aluminum will sweat and leave a rust deposit on the steel piston over time. When they happens, altough only a small mark, the piston will not reseat when you let go of the brake lever as the O ring is catching that rust spot. I always tap the caliper body with a rubber mallet to free the piston and that will stop the binding for a sec.
So, as I now move onto working on the front caliper, I will need a few tools, I will need an 8mm wrench for the brake line and the bleed nipple, as well as a 14mm socket to be able to undo the two steel bolts that hold the caliper to the hanger. Also Dot 3 brake fluid and a bleeder bottle.
I will be fitting a New caliper body, I do not have a New feed line, so will have to be careful undoing the 8mm nut as it looks like its already chewed up from many years of abuse , but I will put a wrench with some tape on it and tap the wrench with a rubber mallet to shock the nut loose and not round the damn thing off.
This is the original caliper and I have no idea where originally this machine had been sitting or what sort of life it has had, even though its low miles, the weather does take its toll on them when sat for years doing nothing.
The Bolts were really tight on this front caliper, so I soaked them with WD40 and then used a socket with extension and go them to undo, but they were really on there tightly.
I replaced the front Caliper completely with the Kit that I sell on here and it worked a treat, really easy to put together and fitted like a glove.
I will advise the customer that on the next service, we should fit new brake lines, but for now we want to make sure that this Super Sport runs well and of course, stops safely.
Fitted the caliper and made sure the bolts were greased so nothing ceazes up like the original bolts and now just need to bleed the brake system to get all the air out.
All the air is bled out, bleeder nipple has the rubber cap placed on top and she is all good on the front end once more and he can rest assured the front brake will work as it should, and now I have to spend a few days stripping the carbs and getting them cleaned like new once more, stay tuned…………….